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Stick Framed Screen Room How-To

Step 1. Lay Out Your Screen Room

. Lay out the actual position of the screen room on the slab, or deck, with a chalk line. Mark wall positions on the home, then level up to the header. Be sure walls do not obstruct any window, access panel or door. With wall positions marked, square the rooms location to the home.

Also be sure you have enough height for a 6,8" door. By keeping your outer most wall at a minimum 7 clearance height, an outswing door will open with 1" clearance, even with gutter attached.

STEP 2. Wall Starter Channel

Now install wall receiving channel where you have pre-marked its position against the home. Using receiving channel allows you to keep your walls level even if the home wall is not. Receiving channel should be securely attached using #10 x 1" screws when attaching to wood. When attaching to concrete or brick use 1-1/4" x 1/4" Drive Pins on 24" centers. Make sure channel remains level during installation. most kits do not contain wall receiving channel it is included only if noted seperately. 2x2 framing should be attached directly to wall.

STEP 3. Outside Wall Once the receiving channel has been installed, and the room position marked out, your next step will be to build the outside wall. 3/4 inch-per-foot fall is recommended construction procedure. Therefore, the actual height of the outside wall will be 3/4" shorter for every foot the wall is away from the header (3A) Take a measurement from the top of the slab to the bottom lip of the header. (3B) Now subtract 3/4" for every foot the wall is to be out from the header. This will be the overall height of the wall. However, to cut proper stud lengths , you have to subtract 2" for the top rail and 1" for the bottom plate, for a total of 3". Corner posts and door posts rest on concrete, so subtract only 2" for them. Corner posts are also notched on the bottom, so that half of the post will rest on the 1 x 2 bottom plate. Note: When using 3/4" fall per foot, the angle of cut will be 3 1/2 degrees. A 2" fall per foot would be a 10 degree cut and so forth.

(4). If the slab is level you can cut all studs the same length, except for the corner and door posts. They will be 1" longer and notched at the bottom. Additionally, all studs must have a 3-1/2 degree angle cut (sloping out) on the top. This allows for the pitch of the roof to meet cleanly with the top rail. Spline groove should be on the short side. Note: the difference between the long side and the short side on a 2" x 2" is 3/16". On a 2" x 3", 5/16".

(5). The top rail on all outside walls must be level. If the slab is not level, mark out stud positions, equally spaced, on the 2 x 2 top rail. Now use this rail to level across where the wall will go. Next block-up the low end of the 2 x 2. Now measure each stud position, previously marked, for how much you will have to add to each stud to level the top rail.

All top rails and bottom plates must be blind screwed. To make holes for blind screwing, drill the 1 x 2 bottom plate and the 2 x 2 top rail to match up with the screw slots inside the plate or rail.

(6). When you assemble the wall, first make a template using a 2-3/4" long piece of 2 x 2, and slide four, 12-D common nails into the screw slots. Now place the template on the top rail or bottom plate, where you have marked the post position, and tap with a hammer to make an imprint. Now drill these punch marks. The bottom plate, and the under side of the top rail, should be drilled with a 3/16" bit. The top side of the top rail should be drilled with a 5/8" bit. This allows the hex head driver to fit inside the 2 x 2, so you can fasten the top rail to the studs.

To ensure all wall openings are the same size, take the total length of the wall, in inches, and subtract the total width of all uprights in the wall, then divide by the number of desired openings.

(7). Example: You have a wall 21 long (252 inches), you have 6 studs 2" wide (12 inches), and you have 5 openings. 252 inches less 12 inches = 240 inches, divided by 5 openings = 48 inches per opening.

Caution: On an outside wall, which is load bearing, openings must not exceed 48".

Note: The top rail should be longer than actual room length to accommodate roof overhand. (one foot on either side generally).

Note: Wall height will be set by applicable engineering.

(8). When marking the 1 x 2 bottom plate and the 2 x 2 top rail for stud positions on an outside wall, if you mark them together (side-by-side) each opening will be the exact distance apart, at the top and bottom, when the wall is put in place.

(9). With the wall now framed, stand it in place and attach a roof panel temporarily above each post. Now anchor the wall to the slab with 1/4" x 2-1/4" T-bolts. Put one T-bolt six inches on each side of every stud, and one in the middle of each opening. If the room has no kickplate, then put 2 T-bolts in every opening, plus the ones by the studs. t-bolts are for anchoring to concrete use 2" screws for wood

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